Thursday, 13 January 2011

This is a bit disjointed because you have to go don the page to see the beginning then come back up to here to complete .The begining is from the pic with the square wrapped in clingfilm

Please remember when doing your tuning to stay safe.Because this wood was spalted i wore an air fed helmet throughout the work.

The pics can be enlarged by clicking on the picture.Comments can be left by going to the bottom of the Blogg

The outside is now completed and ready to reverse chuck and rough out the inside.
First the face needs to be flattened this will bring the blank into balance and allow me to up the speed from 500rpm to about 1300rpm.
The same 1/2" long grind bowl gouge used with a pull cut across the face.

With the face flattened off and the speed raised it is time to remove the centre of the bowl with the same 1/2" bowl gouge.

Now the bowl is ready for the microwave.
I microwave for 4 minutes on defrost and then allow the bowl to cool before microwaving for another 4 minutes on defrost.

The next step is to put the roughed bowl into a carrier bag and hang up.
The roughed out bowls will be hung up for anything up to about 6 months.
Every few days or whenever I think about it I will turn the bags inside out this makes sure the wood is allowed to dry at a controlled speed to avoid splitting.
When the bags no longer have any dampness inside when I turn them I can be sure that they are reasonably dry.I then bring them in from the wood store and leave them in the workshop for at least a month for the moisture content to settle down .
After this period of time there is unlikely to be any further movement certainly not enough to worry about.
The roughed out bowl is now ready to finish.
The next thing I do is return the bowl to the lathe with a jam chuck and the spigot located into the taistock.
Here I have trued up the spigot shaped the outside with a shear cut using the same 1/2" bowl gouge and am now getting a good finish with a negative rake scraper.
Note the very fine shavings coming of the scraper.When using a scraper you should get fine shavings not dust.
The surface is now good enough to start sanding with 240 grit paper.

I always power sand as you are less likely to get sanding marks than hand sanding.The bowl will now be sanded down to 600 grit. 
Having applied a coat of cellulose sanding sealer and de nibbed we are ready to Finnish the top.
We are now reverse chucked, head swiveled and all ready to finish inside.
I will now face off the rim with the same 1/2" bowl gouge and finish turning the inside with the same gouge.

Power sanding the inside and rim from 240 grit down to 600 grit.
With all the sanding done to a good standard i am ready to make a bead this helps to define the bowl and the rim.
Instead of a raised bead i am making this within the rim.
I use a 1/4 beading tool as withe practise and good tool technique it gives a finish that only needs a light sanding.
That is the front and back sanded,bead made and a coat of sanding sealer all over.
It is now time to sort out the spigot.
I leave a thin foot on all my bowls because i think it gives them a bit of lift.
The bowl is now put back between the jam chuck and tailstock for the last time to tidy up the spigot that now becomes the foot.
The foot is tidied up with a spindle gouge leaving just a very small pip that i will remove with a power carver then sand with a sanding arbour in a Jacobs chuck.

  We are nearly finished all we have to do now is buff and polish.
The buffing is done with a fine buffing compound and the polishing with Renaissance wax.

That is it the finished bowl.

I hope somebody finds this useful.I have never done a Blogg before so it is all a bit new to me.

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