They are turned from pine joinery quality timber from the local builders merchants.
The form of these are not completely my own idea they are roughly based on a candlestick Les Thorn made in a demo at the AWGB Seminar earlier in the year.
Les also introduced me to a book by Stuart E.Dyas called Classic Forms.
The book contains a mass of useful information on classical forms used in Woodworking and architecture.
Thank you Les.
If you want to any of these pics just click on the pic.
The first thing you need is to make a template or reference board.It might be possible to make a one off candlestick by eye and guesswork but if you want to make pairs you will have to make a board.
To make the initial board I drew the sizes on some lining wallpaper until I was satisfied the dimensions looked right.I am a great beleiver in if it looks right it is right.When I was satisfied it looket balanced and in proportion the dimensions were transfered to a piece of MDF.
I always make templets out of MDF so that they can be saved for another day.If they are on paper sooner or later they get distroyed or worn out.
This gives me a visual aid and all my sizes are at hand.
It is important that your dimensions are accurate as you will be transferring them onto your wood later. The cut out is just a reminder of the form you are creating.
A useful tip you will have noticed above is to use a n hacksaw blade and a piece of wire to create shapes.
The next job is to prepare all of your timber and have them at hand ready to start.
A Mark Sanger tip Create an indent for your pencil to sit in on your template it makes marking easier.
Here I am using a parting tool to take the wood down to the desired thickness.As I am using the tool in one hand and holding the callipers in the other I am using the parting tool in a scraping mode for safety.
It is the wrong hand but it does not realy matter
We now we need to make a top and bottom.
You can cut these strait into rounds if you want but I just find it quicker on small stuff to knock off the corners.
As you can see I am using a screw chuck the hole will not be seen as it will be inside mortise and hidden from view.
The blanks are mounted on the lathe with the screw chuck held in the Axminster precision chuck with the tailstock brought up to give support while roughing out.
Here I am putting two marks on the blank one for the mortise and the other to show where the shoulder will start.
I am using deviders and making sure that only the left hand point touches.
When turning cross grain pine use as high a speed that is safe and take small cuts as big shards /splinters can break off if you take big cuts.
On the base it will not show as it will be on the underside.
All four pieces are now turned down to the right outer size and a recess made in them all.
All four of these will now be held in the C jaws and turned to a final shape and sanded.
After gluing up with hot melt glue both candlesticks are painted white with acrylic satin emushion paint.
Before they are dry I wipe of as much paint as I can with a soft cloth.
When the paint is dry it is sanded with 320 grade paper.
Then the whole thing is further sanded down with 600 grade paper and a slurry of mixed liming and verdigris wax.
I removed the wax with finishing oil and lots of paper roll.
Two final coats of finishing oil.
This is the end result and I am very pleased how they turned out.